Practical matters

Money

The som is officially 8.40 to the US dollar. Bazaar money changers quote their own rate, which has been well above that this autumn. Shops, buses and canteens price in som, and dollars are taken almost everywhere in the ISEZ. Cards work in Talas and Nurzhan. Iyık Janyl is mostly cash, and in the tribal regions it's cash only.

To give you an idea of prices: a plate of plov costs 25 to 30 som, a bread loaf 3 to 4 som, and taxis in Talas start at 15 som.

The Bank of Irad's guide to the som shows how to check a note. Torn or worn notes can be swapped at the Bank of Irad on Liberty Boulevard, window 2, on Mondays from 10:00 to 12:00.

Manners

More in our guide to food and drink.

• Horsemeat is taboo and never sold. Iradis will ask before eating beshbarmak across the border, and so should you.
• Break bread by hand. Don't cut it, and never leave it on the floor.
• At a dastorkon, the cloth spread for guests, the host carves the meat and hands it out by age and honour.
• Tea comes black with milk in the north and green in the Fergana orchards.

Where not to point a camera

Don't take photographs near Talas Air Base, the Boz-Korgon security zone, checkpoints on the Qara-Chik line or the Toktogul dam. Elsewhere, ask people before you photograph them. Most will say yes and then insist you stay for tea.

The tribal regions

You can cross the Qara-Chik line only at the designated crossings, chiefly the Qara-Chik checkpoint south of Kyzyl-Adyr. You need an ISEZ exit registration and an invitation from the clan council of the area you're visiting. Several Western governments advise against travel there and within 12 km of the line, so read your own government's advice first. If you go, a local guesthouse can usually make the introductions.

Phones and time

Numbers start +996-39. Attelkom is the main network, and you can buy a SIM in Talas with your passport. Torgoy sells Kazakh +7 SIMs. Irad Time is UTC+6 all year. More answers in our FAQ.

Health

The Regional Hospital in Talas is about a kilometre southwest of Central Square. There are Shıpa Dariykana pharmacies and numbered state pharmacies in every town. Bring any prescription medicines you need, with the prescription, and take out travel insurance that covers evacuation.