Bazar-i Kalan, Talas, on an October morning.
Talas · Iyık Janyl · Nurzhan · the high pastures

The land under the Pole Star

Iradis named their country after Polaris, the star a herder steers by. Come for the bazaars of Talas, the pilgrim road to Iyık Janyl, Silk Road caravanserais and a horse culture older than the Silk Road itself.

Bazar-i Kalan, Talas, on an October morning.

New to Irad? Start here

Irad sits in the Talas, Chu and Naryn valleys of Central Asia, between Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. Most visitors stay in the Irad Special Economic Zone (ISEZ), the river valleys and road belts that hold the three cities. The mountains and steppe beyond the Qara-Chik line are the Autonomous Tribal Regions, governed by clan councils, and you need their invitation to go there. Iradis are Christians of an old Syriac church, they live by the horse and they will feed you until you beg them to stop.

TalasCapital, 1.12 million people
SomCurrency; US dollars widely taken
UTC+6Irad Time, all year
Iradi & EnglishOfficial languages; Russian widely understood
11 MarchIrad Day, the national holiday
RightSide of the road you drive on

Plan your trip

Festivals and seasons

What's on

Irad Day and the President's Cup, Easter on Cathedral Hill, the spring horse blessings, the Feast of St. Janyl and the Day of the Dead in Semiz.

Five days to two weeks

Itineraries

Ready-made trips: Irad in five days, a ten-day grand tour, the pilgrim road for the Feast of St. Janyl, and a week in the saddle.

Entry rules, borders and buses

Getting there

Visa-free for US, EU, UK, Canadian, Japanese and Korean passports. No scheduled international flights, so most visitors come overland from Kazakhstan.

Money, manners and the tribal regions

Practical matters

The som and the dollar, how to behave at a dastorkon, where not to point a camera, and what it takes to cross the Qara-Chik line.

Hotels, guesthouses and yurts

Where to stay

Central-avenue hotels in Talas, family guesthouses in the Old City and below Cathedral Hill, pilgrim hostels and herders' yurts.

Buses, taxis and the mountain road

Getting around

Marshrutkas from Talas, Tulpar taxis, the daily train to Nurzhan, the flight to Tash-Kömür, and driving over the Fergana Gateway.

Faith, music, felt and horses

Culture and history

The Syro-Iradi Church and St. Janyl, the komuz and Mor-Wave, shyrdak felt, and Irad's story from the Battle of Talas to today.

For the diaspora

Tracing your roots

How to write down your family's sanjyra, ask the State Archives' genealogy desk, and find the village your grandparents left.

Questions visitors ask Shopping and crafts

Before you go: the Irad web

Our favourite Iradi websites for reading up before you travel and finding your way once you arrive.

News

Look it up

Read

  • Twelve KilometresStories from Talas, free to read online, from Arsha Books.
  • The Ottuk LibraryIradi pocket westerns of the 1960s in English: start with The Rider from Kenkol.

Eat and drink

  • Jibek's DastorkonHome cooking from a Talas kitchen. Learn the dishes before you're served them.
  • Talas SütThe dairy behind your breakfast suzma and summer kymyz.

Listen, watch, look

Sport, shopping, getting about

  • JaryshUlak scores and Ulak Nights tickets.
  • JılmayClassifieds, and the cargo service from Bishkek.
  • TulparThe app most Talas cafés deliver with.
  • AttelkomSIM cards and mobile data.